Stones for chakras – clear and dark stones

In my first post about using minerals, crystals, and stones in ways that correspond to the chakras, I specifically left out any discussion of clear/white and dark/black stones. In thinking about the expanded chakra system the role of these stones becomes clearer: dark and black stones will draw energy and awareness down into the ancestral chakra and act as grounding stones, while white or clear stones will draw one up into the transpersonal chakra. This makes sense given the general perception that black or dark stones are grounding and clear stones are good for directing energy. [*]

The real question here is whether one chooses to see the crown chakra as white. That means collapsing light blue and dark blue, or blue and indigo, together into the throat chakra and attributing purple to the third eye chakra. (That system – with only one blue – has a lot to recommend it also!) If you see the crown chakra as white, then it could make sense to attribute white but cloudy stones to the crown and truly transparent stones to the transpersonal chakra. As with all correspondences, your practice will vary depending on multitudinous factors.

Regardless of the exact attributions, I have found that selenite, clear quartz, white or clear calcite or fluorite, and similar stones are definitely good for expanding one’s energy and awareness up towards the transcendent. Selenite in particular is a gentle mineral for this type of work and is very good for directing Reiki energy.

On the dark/black end of things, it makes sense that black tourmaline, jet, obsidian, and similar stones are good for grounding. These dark or black stones are also useful for drawing out or off any excesses or negativity that have been picked up, just as it is useful in grounding to let go of such things and let the earth take them in and “recycle” them. Another way to think of this is that these stones’ connection to the ancestral chakra serves as a way to take that energy back into the void or the collective unconscious. (Honestly, I’m still exploring the exact terminology I want to use around these concepts, so I’m interested in how others see this also!) Of course, a stone from one’s own landbase is also an excellent stone for grounding!

With these things in mind, it’s worth noting that tourmalinated quartz combines these qualities, so it is most useful for seeking balance, especially balance between the immanent and transcendent. Smoky quartz can do something similar, although it has plenty of other specific uses of its own, and snowflake obsidian can also work for balance although with an emphasis on grounding.

* Actually, the idea that “energy” must be white or light is an interesting bias in our metaphysical ideas. It shows that we tend to think of this energy as coming from the above, the transcendent, as those are connected with what is traditionally good in the dichotomy of good vs evil. This bias seems inappropriate to me because I worship the divine in everything, both the transcendent and the immanent, and because I think there’s a lot of power in the shadow, the dark, the silence, which we need to work with. But Shadow work is a whole pursuit of its own, so for here I will only note that I think clear/white and black/dark stones are equally capable of working with energy, they just do so differently.

 

Stones for chakras

Much of the way I use stones, minerals, and crystals is based on how their colors correspond to the chakras. In my introduction to the chakras, I described how each one represents an area of life. I use stones corresponding to the chakras to support or stimulate certain qualities within those areas. For example, if I need more self-confidence, I want to use stones that correspond to the solar plexus chakra, so I’ll choose yellow stones.

When working with stones, your mileage may vary significantly, of course, but if you’re trying to get to know a stone, mineral, or crystal that you haven’t worked with before, making an assessment based on its color is a good place to start theorizing what its qualities might be. Experience changes these first guesses, of course. And like all systems of correspondences, the classification by color is only one factor that describes the nature of a stone.

Some stones have specific associations that either contradict or have nothing to do with their color – rose quartz, for example, is a very heart-related stone, even though it’s pink, not green. There are also multi-colored stones and stones that don’t really fall under one of the basic spectrum colors, such as pink and brown stones. I may address some of these specific stones in future posts.

Within a specific color family, different appearances lend themselves to different uses. I have found that stones which are more opaque tend to be more calming and regulating, supporting the functions of a chakra without necessarily overstimulating it. For example, I find calcite to be especially gentle and calming, and it is conveniently available in many colors and pretty affordable. I’ve also found that stones which are physically softer (fluorite, calcite, selenite, etc) tend to have gentler energy.

Conversely, the more transparent and harder a stone is, the more it will be useful for opening and energizing, tending to increase the energy of a particular chakra, whether that’s what is best or not.

There are many, many stones that are frequently used in magic, but here is a list of crystals that correlate with each chakra in my experience:

  • Root chakra: garnet, red calcite
  • Generative (second, sacral) chakra: carnelian, some amber, orange calcite
  • Solar plexus chakra: citrine, sulfur, yellow calcite
  • Heart chakra: emerald, malachite, bloodstone, green fluorite
  • Throat chakra: aquamarine, amazonite, turquoise, kyanite, blue calcite
  • Insight (third eye) chakra: lapis, sapphire, dumortierite
  • Crown chakra: amethyst, lepidolite, purple fluorite

Some people associate clear quartz with the crown chakra, but I’ll get into the subject of clear and dark-colored stones in a future post.

Clearing stones

Clearing or cleansing crystals and minerals for magical purposes is an important part of working with stones. The details of timing and methods depend on the stones being used and your intent.

Personally I try to use the more general term “stones” instead of “crystals” because plenty of the things I work with are not crystals (such as mica-bearing schist from my local land base) and some are not even minerals (notably amber and jet). “Crystal” sounds pretty but leads to confusion; I’d rather be earthy and accurate.

The techniques I use to work with stones are determined by my understanding that everything in the world has spirit. Particular stones have particular spirits, more or less personalities, if you will, and I work with those spirits on a metaphysical level. The unique qualities of a stone, based on both its type and the particulars of this specimen, interact with my intentions for particular purposes.

Timing

Because I work with stones through intent, I think they need to be cleared regularly. Some sources disagree and say that there are certain stones which never need to be cleaned. From my perspective, it’s not necessarily the stone which needs to be cleared, it’s my intention and the way I used the stone the last time.

As a result, I clear stones when I first get them and after every time I use them. Then when I go to use them again, I’ve cleared the last working from my own mind as well, so I’m not still thinking about the last use and getting my intentions muddled up.

The only stones I can think of that I haven’t cleared are the stones which I collected from a particular land base and which I use to connect me to that land base.

Methods

I’m going to discuss multiple ways for cleansing and clearing stones, including which ones should NOT be used for particular stones. Please also do your own research to avoid damaging a specimen about which you care deeply.

Smudging

Probably the easiest and safest way to clear a stone is to waft incense smoke (or fan clean air) over it. Personally, smudging stones just doesn’t make a whole lot of sense to me; Air and Fire are such mutable, even flighty Elements that it seems hard to put them to work on Earth, especially parts of Earth that are as fixed and stable as minerals and crystals. That said, if this works for you, or you need something to do quickly, or for a particularly fragile item, go for it.

Washing

Washing with water can damage a surprising number of stones, including (but not limited to!) salt crystals (obviously), selenite (including its form as gypsum rose or desert rose), and to a lesser extent calcite, aragonite, and angelite. Even stones that don’t dissolve can be damaged by contaminants in your water or start to have a chemical reaction with the materials of the container you put them in. In particular, if you are going to ‘wash’ stones, do NOT soak them in salt water in a reactive (metal) basin. All three parts of that – soaking, salt, and metal – have their own risks of damaging stones.

Space and time

My preferred method of cleansing stones is to use location and time. I have a designated place where I put things to be cleared for at least 24 hours. For me, this is my windowsill, so it functions as a place away from my usual work spaces and closer to the outside environment, where stones are exposed to at least one sun and moon cycle. I think of this as almost returning them to the the outdoors to ‘rest,’ or at least be separated from the specific intents that I had for them. When I interact with them again, I find that all I sense is the material’s innate qualities.

Exposing stones to direct sunlight does have its own risks. Some stones can fade in the sun, especially colored quartz varieties (such as amethyst and citrine), and also celestite, fluorite, and some topaz, among others. Personally, I don’t worry about this for short periods of time, and I make sure that my long-term storage of stones is out of direct sunlight. It’s also worth mentioning that some high-quality quartz crystals or crystal balls can act as lenses to focus sunlight, and could theoretically create enough heat to start a fire just as a magnifying glass would. Position these crystals out of direct light.

Stones that are exposed to the weather (and my windows are not particularly well insulated) can be damaged by being heated or cooled. Again, this is less of a concern over the short periods I’m talking about, but be mindful not to take a stone from right next to your Yule fire and put it outside in the snow to clear.

Another suggestion I have heard is placing stones on a bed of salt crystals to be cleansed. That makes good sense to me – it’s using Earth to clear Earth – as long as you are gentle enough not to create scratches on your softer minerals, such as selenite. If I had the right space, I might consider making a dedicated place outside where I could put my stones and leave them for a little while. I’d want them to be safe while being symbolically returned to the Earth in this way, so maybe something like a little covered space in the north corner of a yard would work, but it would depend on the details.

Obviously every method has its benefits and risks, and your preferences will depend on your personal understanding of how you work with your stones. These are my methods – what are yours?

Information about handling selenite

Selenite is a mineral form that can be very useful, but it has some different physical properties than the harder stones we work with – like the quartz varieties – and I recently had some experience with it that I thought others might find helpful.

Selenite is named after the moon goddess Selene because the way its structure looks in light creates a white-on-white effect that resembles moonlight on water. It actually contains none of the element selenium. Selenite is a form of gypsum, which is a hydrated calcium sulfate. This means there are water molecules in the crystal lattice itself. If you add more water, gypsum can dissolve, but the process happens very slowly.

Gypsum is also very soft – softer than your fingernails. Selenite is probably the softest mineral that most of us work with on a regular basis. It should always be stored or carried with some cushioning, and not with any other stones rubbing up against it. On the other hand, its softness also means that it can be reshaped and polished fairly easily.

FYI, the mineral form called “desert rose” is (almost always) also a form of gypsum, which means that it is just as soft as selenite, but because of its formation it is less likely to show small scratches. I still wouldn’t carry it in a pouch with other stones.

Now for the practical experience:

I had a piece of selenite go through the washer recently. It was not appreciably smaller in size afterwards. The biggest effect was that the surface was much rougher all over. So even a thorough soaking and agitation does not instantly dissolve it, but it does definitely disturb the polished surface. I was thinking about how to restore the polish, and realized that since selenite has approximately the hardness of fingernails, the same things that I use to shape my fingernails might work on selenite – and they did!

I used a four-sided nail buffer to repolish my selenite. This is NOT your typical metal nail file. (One of those would probably chew through selenite pretty quickly, like a hacksaw.) A buffer is a series of four different grits mounted on a soft foam block. They’re not very common at regular drugstores, but you can find them in beauty supply shops or online. The kind I typically use has a blue surface for filing, a pink surface for smoothing ridges, a white surface for buffing, and a grey surface for polishing. The grey surface feels completely smooth, not like emery at all.

I used the pink, white, and grey surfaces in the same order I would on my nails. Please note that this did wear down the grit on my nail buffer quite a bit more than just doing my nails, so I’m going to need a new one soon, but I thought it was an inexpensive and easy solution! Plus, it was rather satisfying to repolish the piece myself; it’s always good to forge a hands-on relationship with one’s magical tools.

To buff, I found that circular motions were the most effective, and that the process took some time. On the other hand, once a polished surface is achieved, small scratches can be buffed out relatively quickly. If you just want to restore a small scratch, I would start with the white surface and go slowly; you can probably make it almost imperceptible without having to repolish too large of an area.

I hope some of you find this useful!